Plant of the Month

January 2011 - Sarcococca

This lustrous, hardy evergreen shrub is easily overlooked in the summer months, but in winter earns its place in the limelight. No matter how grim the weather, sarcococca will produce an abundance of creamy white vanilla-scented flowers from December to March. These are followed by long-lasting glossy black and red berries.

Once established, slow-growing sarcococca will prove to be robust plant that’s generally trouble-free. You’ll rarely have to reach for the secateurs - most types can be described as ‘small, neat shrubs’ but the occasional nip and tuck will keep them in good shape.

February 2011 - Heathers (Erica)

Heathers can be described as the ultimate evergreen ground cover shrub, but are more versatile in that they can be grown in containers and baskets for great effect right across the year. The range of foliage colour complements the flower colours that are bright and vibrant.

Heathers combine well with conifers and ornamental grasses in borders. On a smaller scale, the more upright forms make a fabulous display for a container or hanging basket when underplanted with spring bulbs such as snowdrops, crocus and miniature daffodils.

March 2011 - Choisya
This evergreen bush is very attractive when covered with scented white blossom. Light trimming after flowering will encourage a further flush of flower later in summer/ early autumn.

Choisya will thrive in full sun or partial shade and is relatively hardy providing it has a favoured position in the garden. It will prefer a well drained soil which can be slightly acid or alkaline, but it is worth adding plenty of well rotted garden compost prior to planting.

May 2011 - Fuchsias

Fuchsias come in huge array of colours and different forms to suit almost any situation.

Hardy varieties can be planted with other shrubs in beds and borders for permanent displays. Less hardy varieties can be used to add seasonal colour to borders, containers and baskets.

Fuchsias are shade tolerant so they are idea for grouping together with other shade-loving plants, such as begonias and impatiens.

To ensure continuous flowering all summer regularly dead head and feed regularly.

June 2011 - Roses

Beautiful flower colour. Fragrance. Available as bushes, climbers, ramblers, ground cover, hedging and patio containers. Rose offer a combination versatility and beauty offering a huge choice of flower shapes and colour.

Depending on your taste, you may love the tightly furled and fluted hybrid teas, the large and showy ‘cabbage’ types or the simplicity of the dog rose. The range of flower colour is seemingly inexhaustible , from white and cream through pastels, blues and mauves to vibrant reds, oranges and yellows, even multi-toned and striped.

Many modern roses have been bred to repeat flower and will provide colour from late May until well into autumn. Although old-fashioned roses usually have just one flowering period, they make up for it with an abundance of blooms. They also tend to have a stronger perfume.

April 2011 - Rhododendrons
Deciduous and Evergreen shrubs; White, Red, Pink, Purple flowers.
Large leaved types can grow into small trees whereas the small leaved types will make excellent ground cover in the right situation in the garden
The range of species and cultivars can give flowering from December through July.
Companion plants
Lilies, Japanese acers, magnolias and camellias make excellent combinations with rhododendrons as they prefer similar positions when planting and acid soils.
Rhododendrons require acid soil with a pH of around 5.5, and prefer dry area in partial shade.
All acid plants should be planted using ericaceous compost and plant foods, look for the pink packaging when looking for ericaceous products.

July 2011 - Agapanthus

Commonly known as the African lily. The name agapanthus is derived from the two greek words: ‘agape’ meaning love & ‘anthos’ meaning flower.

Agapanthus are striking herbaceous perennials with showy flowers in shades of blue, purple, white and pink, which last for weeks.

Agapanthus thrive in any well drained, sunny position in the garden. They are fantastic container plants which suit a whole variety of styles.

Protect with bark or a few layers of fleece in winter or move to a dry, frost free place in autumn.

August 2011 - Japanese Anemone

Japanese Anemone or windflowers are great for long-lasting colour in late summer/autumn border. The flowers come in a range of whites, creams and pinks as singles, semi and fully doubles.

These herbaceous perennials will grow happily in both full sun or partial shade in well-drained, light soil. They do like moisture though, which is why often pop up between paving where their roots have a cool run. They are fully hardy and flower between August and October, until the first frost. Depending in the type, they can grow to 120cm, but the upright stems won’t need staking.

Planted in big clumps, they’ll make a wonderful display, especially when used with other herbaceous perennials such as asters and sedums. Once established they’ll steadily fill any gaps in the border - they spread by underground roots. Plants can be divided between October and April, when they’re dormant. Protect them from the worst of the winter weather with a thick covering of mulch.

Good companion plants include: Aconitum (monkshood), Asters, Buddlejas, Fuchsias, Hibiscus, Hydrangeas, Rudbeckias.

September 2011 - Daffodil

The sight of daffodils swaying in the spring breeze lifts the spirits with the promise of new beginnings. However, for the best effect, the bulbs need to be planted early in autumn, preferably in a warm, sunny, well-drained site.

Daffodil is the common English name for Narcissus. It is thought that the name derived from the Greek word ‘narcoa’ meaning to grow numb, is a reference to the plant’s narcotic properties.

Mostly yellow or white, daffodils can be used effectively in borders, grassland and containers. In borders, plant in groups of six at a depth three times the height of the bulb and at least the width of two bulbs apart. For a natural look in grassland, choose smaller bulbs and scatter them randomly, planting where they fall. In containers, they are best planted along side bulb that flower at different time in order to give a succession of colour throughout the season for maximum effect and value.

Feed with growmore, then with a high potash feed after flowering, and avoid drying out once the flowers are over, as this is the time is the time when next season bulbs form. Allow foliage to die down naturally, rather than cut or tie up, to allow nutrients to build up in the bulb for the following year.